Italy

Wines of ITALY

With 20 sub-regions and approximately 2,000 grape varieties, Italy is a most diverse wine producing country. Many of Italy’s grapes have rarely left its own region’s borders, so only the major varieties will be covered here. Besides some of the bigger names from the classic wine styles (such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti or Prosecco) Italy is a treasure trove of inexpensive-but-good wines, so ask your wine steward or shop owner for these and other options. Italians are mostly serious about their reds, which are distinctive in that they carry a salivating sweet-sour, even bitter, taste. Their whites are refreshing, bone-dry and full of character as they age. To help clarify some of the different terms you’ll notice on some labels here are a few hints: Classico indicates a more prestigious region for the grape. (Chianti Classico, for instance, is the region known for superior Chianti.) Riserva implies additional aging (which indicates it will have more mature flavors than non-Riserva wines: important to know if you prefer fruity, fresh wines); and Superiore represents higher alcohol level.

Trying to distill down Italy’s wine regions, varietals, producers and vintages into a beginner’s guide is like trying to thread a rope through a needle, but here goes…

Northern Italy

Piedmont


The cool, mountainous region of Piedmont produces crisp, austere wines that generally have higher levels of palate-cleansing acidity and tannins, yet light fruit flavors; traditional styles can take years to become pleasurable to drink. The main grape, Nebbiolo, has flavors of roses, tar, ripe strawberries, truffles, minerals – some, a hint of balsamic; some, earthy and chocolaty. Barolo is the more intense version and Barbaresco is plummier and more fruity. Other Nebbiolo styles are usually slightly less full-bodied and easier to drink early. The Barbara grape produces a lighter, less tannic, more acidic wine with flavor characteristics similar to Cabernet Sauvignon: prominent flavors of blackcurrant, blackberry, cherry, raspberry and spice. Freisa is a fruit-driven, juicy variety; and Dolcetto is a dry, velvety, and somewhat grapey wine with low acidity. The whites are dry yet rich in texture. Arneis has savory flavors that recall almonds, herbs and hints of peaches, apricots, and pears. Asti, an aromatic, sparkling wine, can be fruity with hints of ripe peaches and apricots. Cortese makes crisp, light-bodied wines with citrus and appley flavors; the best have a mineral character and even notes of honey.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Nebbiolo Barbera Freisa Dolcetto	*Nebbiolo based:* Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo, Gattinara, Ghemme Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Asti, Barbera d’Monferrato Freisa d’Asti, Freisa di Chieri, Monferrato Freisa Dolcetto d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Acqui	Arneis Moscato Cortese	Roero Arneis Moscato d’Asti, Asti Spumante Gavi di Gavi. Cortese di Gavi Cortese di Alto Monferrato

Trentino-Alto Adige


Wine from this region is usually named by grape variety. Due to the area’s varying climates, the Alto Adige’s cool climate produces wines that are crisp and acidic, yet delicate on the palate – and the warmer climate of Trentino produces wines with a little more body and a little less acidity. The reds range from the light and easy drinking strawberryish Schiava to full-bodied rich, complex native variety wines. Lagrein can be intensely red with notes of cocoa, spice and earth overlaid with some sour cherry astringency on the finish. Teroldego is dark in color, medium-bodied and filled with snappy acidity, bright spicy fruits and a kaleidoscope of herbs: some versions are referred to as a “cousin” of Syrah. The whites are crisp and lively and are best early. Pinot Grigio is characterized by a crisp cleanness – usually delicate and mild, but can grow more full-bodied and complex. Italian Chardonnays are leaner and crisper. Most are un-oaked with light fruit. Traminer hails from Austria and has an amazingly light body, but is intensely floral and delicious. The Pinot Bianco is concentrated and complex, with ripe pear, spice, citrus and honey notes. Vino Santo is a sweet wine made from dried grapes.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Lagrein Schiava Teroldego Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc	Lagrein Teroldego Granato	Pinot Grigio Traminer Chardonnay Vino Santo Pinot Bianco	Pinot Grigio Traminer Chardonnay Vino Santo Pinot Bianco

Veneto


The majority of wine from this region is light and simple. Famous for its reds – Valpolicella and Amarone – and its whites – Soave and Prosecco. The deep purple Valpolicella has simple, juicy flavors of plums and cherries and spice. Amarone is a richer style because it undergoes a drying process and becomes an elegant, dark, and full of raisinated fruited dry wine. Valpolicella Ripasso, is wine passed over the dried grape skins left over from Amarone, giving the wine more rich, opulent flavors. (A less expensive option to the pricier Amarone wines.) Bardolino is similar in style to the Valpolicella. Soave is a fresh, crisp, dry white wine that varies from delicate and light to richly creamy with an almond-like flavor. Prosecco is a dry sparkling wine, less fizzy than Champagne and occasionally has a slight sweetness. The popular Pinot Grigio has pear and hazelnut flavors with just enough zip to make this a refreshing choice.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara	Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso Amarone della Valpolicella Bardolino	Garganega, Trebbiano Prosecco Pinot Grigio	Soave, Soave Superiore, Recioto di Soave Prosecco Pinot Grigio

Friuli-Venezia Giulia


Alpine breezes and altitude keeps the vines cool and the grapes full of acidity. Most of these wines are labeled by their grape variety. This region is better known for its whites than red wines. Tocai Friuliano yields the top white wine of Friuli and makes light- to medium-bodied wines — they range from tangy, with a citrusy acidity, ripe pear and apple flavor and fragrant with flowers, to savory with nut, spice and mineral flavors; the best of them have a rich, viscous texture. Chardonnays are lean and crisp. The Ribolla Gialla is more unique, almost savory (as opposed to fruity); crisp and minerally with aromas of pear, pineapple and mustiness – when slightly oaked it is full-flavored and almost buttery: a richly layered white wine when aged. The Pinot Grigios here have a fruity succulence of a crisp, cold pear and are also rich and viscous. The reds are crisp and lively. Refosco is a specialty of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. This variety makes velvety-textured, medium- and full-bodied wines with ripe black-fruit flavors with herbal highlights.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Cabernet Franc Caberent Sauvignon Merlot Refosco	Cabernet Franc Caberent Sauvignon Merlot Refosco	Tocai Friulano Pinot Grigio Pinot Bianco Ribolla Gialla Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc	Tocai Fruiliano Pinot Grigio Pinot Bianco Ribolla Gialla Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc

Emilia-Romagna

This region is most well known for its locally loved Lambrusco. Most authentic versions are vibrantly juicy but finish dry, with lots of dark berry flavors and a bit of earthiness. They pair wonderfully with salty Italian aperitivi (think Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma) and are a refreshing complement to pizza. They have a slight effervescence and dominant aromas of violets when poured. Serve slightly chilled. The whites are less popular, but as refreshing. The Albana di Romagna is dry with an almond undertone, and Trebbiano di Romagna is light and fresh, in sparkling or still versions.

Key Red Grape Varieties

Most commonly labeled as…

Key White Grape Varieties

Most commonly labeled as…

Grasparossa

Lambrusco

Albana

Trebbiano

Albana di Romagne

Trebbiano di Romagna

Central Italy

Tuscany
The sunny, temperate region of Tuscany yields bold, lusty, full-bodied sensations. Its main grape, Sangiovese, comes in many styles. All are oak aged, by law, at least one year before they are sold. Basic Chiantis are light easy reds with lots of juicy fruit flavors and little oak. Young ones offer notes of raspberries and sage on the nose, supported by a slight acidity. Chianti Classico contains at minimum 75% Sangiovese, allowing for the blending of other local or international varietals. Chianti Riserva are often aged in French oak and released after 2+ years, creating ample structure filled with earthy, spicy, mature notes of blackberries, mixed with flavors of cocoa, baking spices, and violets. The best of these wines will improve with age. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is more floral and fuller than Chianti. Brunello are among the most complex and intense expressions of Sangiovese and are aged the longest. (Rosso di Montalcino is the lighter, ready to drink, less expensive version.) Super Tuscans are any Tuscan red wine that don’t adhere to traditional blending laws; can be 100% Sangiovese or blends of any number of grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah. Vernaccia is a fresh, nutty white wine. Vin Santo is a dessert wine made from dried grapes.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Sangiovese (Brunello/ Sangiovese Grosso) Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot	Chianti, Chianti Classico, Chianti Riserva/ Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino/ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Rosso di Montepulicano/ Carmignano, Barco Reale di Carmignano *Super Tuscans:* Solaia, Tignanello, Sassicaia, Ornellaia	Trebbiano Malvasia Vernaccia	Vin Santo Malvasia Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Umbria

Umbria’s slightly warmer climate imparts an earthiness not found in some North Eastern Italian wines. Torgiano is a Chianti-like blend. Sagrantino is an elegant wine, fairly limited in its production, but responsible for the dark, intense, age-worthy red called Sagrantino di Montefalco. Inky purple, with rustic brooding fruit, smoke flavors and heavy tannins, these wines can age for many years. One tasty, refreshing white is Orvieto, which is made from a blend of four or five grape varieties. Light, soft, simple and affordable, designed for light salads and picnics. The “semi-sweet” version of Orvieto is called Abboccato. a dry wine crafted from Trebbiano and Grechetto grapes.

Key Red Grape Varieties

Most commonly labeled as…

Key White Grape Varieties

Most commonly labeled as…

Sangiovese

Sagrantino

Merlot

Torgiano Rosso Riserva

Sagrantino di Montefalco

Trebbiano, Grechetto + others

Orvieto

Abboccato

Abruzzo/Marches

The wines of Abruzzo are simple and robust to match its hearty but simple foods. Sweet tannins and a jammy, soft flavor characterize the widely grown Montepulciano red grape. It produces a silky plum-like fruited, friendly acidity and light tannin easy drinking red wine: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno (the latter 2 are from the Marches) are among the best varieties. They are medium-bodied wines with unusual smoky, red-fruity, and vegetal flavors; and they range from easy to drink to heavy food partners. The whites are pale, easy drinking wines. Trebbiano is straw-yellow, flecked with green with aromas of white tea, lilac pollen, white flowers, and spring rains. The wine is delicate and dry on the palate with a beautiful silken texture. (However, because of the acidity, some producers have even been known make wines that can age for 15+ years!) Verdicchio is a light, dry wine with hints of fresh apple and lemon, good acidity and deeply nutty flavors and an acidity that can help it age well for a few years – but it has a fruity freshness when drunk young.

Key Red Grape Varieties

Most commonly labeled as…

Key White Grape Varieties

Most commonly labeled as…

Montepulciano

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Rosato d’ Abruzzo

Rosso Conero, Rosso Piceno

Trebbiano (Abruzzo)

Verdicchio (Marches)

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo

Verdicchio di Castelli di Jesi

Verdicchio di Metlica

Southern Italy

Puglia
Puglia (or Apulia), with its minerally terrain, offers inexpensive, yet refined, full-bodied reds. Negroamaro literally means “black and bitter.” A widely planted grape with its concentration in the region of Puglia, it is the backbone of the acclaimed Salice Salentino: spicy, toasty, and full of dark red fruits. The bitter note often helps cut through its super-ripe, black fruit flavors. Primitivo – the Italian version of the Zinfandel grape – makes deeply colored wines with spicy, ripe berry character, full body, and high alcohol. Red berry fruits, like raspberry, predominate in wines from the cooler areas; whereas blackberry, anise and pepper notes are more common in wines made in warmer areas – as well as in wines made from the earlier-ripening Primitivo clone.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Negroamara Primitivo	Salice Salentino Primitivo di Manduria, Gioia del Colle Primitivo (Riserva) Falerno del Massico Primitivo (Riserva o Vecchio)

Compania
Considered the “noble varietal of the south,” Aglianico is full-bodied, tannic, long-lived red wine and it is primarily grown in Campania and Basilicata. By law, Taurasi must be aged at least three years; however, it is best after being aged 15 to 20 years. The name is derived from Hellenic, so it is considered a Greek transplant. Thick skinned and spicy, the wines are often both rustic and powerful. Piedirosso is a gently sparkling wine, perfect with tomato sauce – and the bubbles create a refreshing counterpoint to gooey cheese. The whites are crisp, lemon-scented wine with a lot of savory minerality. The Greco di Tufo is a dry and refreshing full-flavored wine with pleasant tones of sambuco, peaches and almonds; a great match to fried or rich seafood dishes. (This is usually ready to drink in three to five years but can age up to about twelve years.) Fiano has a flowery, delicate nose with a flavor of hazelnuts. The wines from this grape can be described as dewy and herbal, often with notes of pinenut and pesto. Needs a few years to develop, but can age for 15 years+. In its youth it makes light, dry whites fragrant with smoky mineral and lemon pith notes.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Aglianico Piedirosso	Taurasi Falerno del Massico	Greco di Tufo Fiano	Greco di Tufo Fiano di Avellino

Sicily
With its ample sunshine, cool breezes off the sea and abundance of terroirs, Sicily has its own wines to be proud of. Nero d’Avola makes a rich, velvety, full-bodied, concentrated red wine with an intense bouquet. It has firm structure and the ability to age, most of them have ripe black fruit and spice notes – with plenty of racy acidity – and because of this, it is also excellent for blending. With its heady flavors of ripe fruit and herbs it has been gaining global attention and has therefore been nicknamed “the Barolo of the South.” (The volcanic soils of Mt. Edna vineyards impart a strong smoky minerality.) The Grillo grape produces a light and citrusy white wine; bright straw yellow color with lively notes of almonds, citrus, and apples. The round body is nicely combined with a pleasantly fresh finish on the palate. Marsala wines are similar to sherry, a fully fermented wine, fortified, sweetened and aged, creating an intense opulent wine ranging from dry to sweet.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Nero d’Avola (Calabrese) Marsala	Nero d’Avola Marsala	Grillo	Grillo

Sardinia
With sea breezes and warm temperatures, Sardinia creates ideal growing conditions for the Cannonau grape (also known as Grenache in France and Garnacha in Spain). It’s the island’s main red variety, making light- and/or full-bodied round, fleshy and ripe fruit wines; carrying smoky, peppery and cranberryish notes – you may also find it in some rosés. The Carignan grape produces a full-bodied red, with special emphasis on the Riserva. Crisp, dry whites are most often made from the Vermentino grape and found in the northern regions of Sardinia.
Key Red Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…	Key White Grape Varieties	Most commonly labeled as…
Cannonau Carignan	Cannonau di Sardegna Carignano del Sulcis	Vermentino Vernacchia	Vermentino di Sardegna, Vermentino di Gallura Vernacchia di Oristano